Airumá

  • Country
    Brazil
  • State
    Bahia
  • Region
    Chapada Diamantina
  • Town
    Mucugê
  • Altitude
    1,150m above sea level
  • Variety
    Catuaí 144
  • Processing
    Pulped Natural with 18 hour ferment and machine dried
  • Owner
    Borré Family
  • Awards
    Cup of Excellence 2015 #15, 2017 #20

Honey blossom aroma and notes of ripe plum, cherry, toffee and peach jam. Intensely sweet with a syrupy body.

Airumá is a small lot selected from Fazenda Progresso, a beautiful farm nestled in the Chapada Diamantina mountain range in the heart of Bahia. The farm is surrounded by the Chapada Diamantina National Park, known for its mountainous cliff formations (Chapada) and 19th-century diamond mining (Diamantina).

The name Airumá comes from the incredible ‘starry sky’ that we enjoy every time we visit Progresso. In the evenings we are always blown away by the incredibly clear night skies that are filled with stars (the best we have ever seen).

 

 

ABOUT FAZENDA PROGRESSO

Fazenda Progresso is owned by the Borré family who have been in business for three generations. The history of farm dates back to 1984 when the Borré family migrated from Southern Brazil to the northeast and purchased some land in the municipality of Ibicoara, near the town of Mucugê. In the early years, the family tried growing crops such as soybeans, wheat and English potatoes. The potatoes turned out to be an incredibly successful crop, stimulating investments and making the family one of the largest producers of potatoes in Brazil!

In 2005, the Borré family sought to diversify the activities on their land and began to focus on coffee. They recognised they had the ideal conditions to produce specialty coffee with high altitudes, plentiful rainfall, and rich soil. Fabiano Borré spearheaded the coffee program, investing in state-of-the-art infrastructure and agricultural practices to ensure they could produce the very highest quality coffee possible. Fabiano also surrounded himself with an exceptional team and sought advice from some of the most respected professionals in the field, including Silvio Leite, founder of the Cup of Excellence and president of the Brazil Specialty Association, with 30 years of experience in coffee grading, tasting and quality control.

Fazenda Progresso’s infrastructure is meticulously designed and over the last decade, Fabiano has continued to experiment and invest in equipment and processes that will improve the quality of his coffee. He has a robust quality control program and dedicated quality control lab with a talented cupping team headed up by Ednaldo Nascimento who has worked with Progresso since 2010.

Fazenda Progresso is located on a plateau at an elevation of 1,150m above sea level. This elevation plays a key role in the quality of the beans, as does the average temperature variation of 10°C, with hot days and cool nights, which provides the ideal conditions for slow cherry maturation, giving time for natural sugars to develop, resulting in a sweet and complex cup.

THE BORRÉ FAMILY

The Borré family business has always been managed and directed by family members and is now in its third generation of operation. Fabiano Borré looks after everything to do with the coffee side of the business. He is young, focused and forward-thinking, and very motivated to produce the very best coffee he can. You can read an interview with Fabiano Borré here.

The Borrés motto is ‘Mindful Coffee’. This describes their commitment to acting mindfully and ensuring that their family values and vision (that centre around excellence, innovation, and environmental and social responsibility) are informing every decision they make and defining how they do business.

Fazenda Progresso’s people and their welfare is important to the Borré family, and they take great care to create an excellent work environment for their staff. Buses are provided to and from work and clean and welcoming lunch facilities and bathrooms are also provided. The staff are also provided with insurance, protective wear, sunscreen and biannual health check-ups by a resident doctor.

Caring for the environment is another core value for the Borré family, who take great care to protect and preserve the ecological health of their area. Water is sourced from their farm’s lake and is carefully conserved, with meteorological stations positioned throughout the farm to optimise irrigation and ensure the trees get the right amount of water. Cascara pulp from processing is composted (along with potato wastage, which is very high in potassium and great for coffee trees!) and used to fertilise trees throughout the plantation. 75% of the land is also preserved as native land; well above the national minimum of 20%.

The Borré family is also very active in their community. In addition to providing hundreds of jobs in the region, they provide financial support to the local school that is located in the village next to the farm.  They are also working hard to build tourism in the region and working closely with the state government to get the region recognised for its agricultural excellence.

 

AWARDS

In 2015, for the first time, the Borré family entered their coffee into the Cup of Excellence competition. It placed 15th – a fantastic achievement and testament to the hard work, resources, and focus that has been put into producing exceptional coffee. It also placed 20th in the 2017 Cup of Excellence.

HOW THIS COFFEE WAS PROCESSED

The Borré family’s commitment to quality is evident whenever we visit, and we are always blown away by the level of investment and care that goes into processing the coffee.  They produce both natural and pulped natural coffees, and Fabiano is always experimenting and looking for ways to improve the quality in the cup. This curiosity and continuous drive to do things better makes working with and buying coffee from Progresso super exciting, and we are continually impressed with the improvements and new heights of potential that this farm is delivering.

In total, 530 hectares of the property are dedicated to coffee; this land is divided up into different plots, which are processed separately.  Over time, the family has worked out the optimum way to plant coffee trees in order to maximise productivity, with 50 centimetres between each tree and three metres between each row of trees. Fabiano closely monitors environmental data (rainfall, nutrition, temperature) from each of the plots to identify which parts of the farm have the highest quality potential, and deploys his best pickers to these parts of the farm to select the very ripest cherries by hand.

This coffee was carefully hand-picked by a specially trained team in August. It was then processed via the pulped natural method: the cherry’s skin and fruit were removed and the sticky, parchment-covered beans were soaked in a tank with water for 18 hours. The coffee was then dried very slowly and thoroughly in mechanical dryers for 18 hours and then rested for 6 hours.  This process was repeated for a total of 40 hours until the coffee reached 12% humidity. Progresso has done a lot of experimentation with drying and has found that this method yields the very best results and ensures that the coffee holds its quality over an extended period of time.

Once dry, the coffee was cupped by the QC team and placed in large silos to rest. Once approved and ready for export it was processed at Fazenda Progresso’s dry mill which is also located on the farm.

We cupped through many lots with Fabiano and Ednaldo, and this was one of our favourites. The 2,400kg lot comes from the ‘Three Brothers’ parcel of the farm which is drip irrigated. We think it represents some of the very best of Brazil. We hope you enjoy it!

WHAT IS IN A NAME?

When Progresso was first founded, it was given its name ‘Progresso’ which translates quite literally to ‘progress’ in English. This name reflects the family’s concept and philosophy of business – which has been held and passed down across generations and is still very relevant to the family’s ethos, business culture and drive today. It portrays their boundless energy, their entrepreneurial spirit and drive, and their unwavering commitment to quality and improvement in every working day. We feel very lucky to be working with Fabiano and the Fazenda Progresso team, and look forward to sharing their coffees with you for many years to come!